A Beginner's Guide To Graphite Drawing Pencils, Erasers ...
A Beginner's Guide To Graphite Drawing Pencils, Erasers ...
How to Choose and Use Them
Although I utilize a camera and a computer to help conceptualize my ideas, these are merely tools I use to transfer my concepts to paper. They are simple yet effective. The most complex tool I employ is my mind, continuously reminding me that true beauty lies in the simplicity of ideas and processes.
Graphite Drawing Pencils
The graphite used in regular pencils is the same as that in artist-quality pencils. The primary difference lies in the type and quantity of filler mixed with the graphite to create various degrees of hardness, along with quality control. The softest grade is 9B, while the hardest is 9H. The most common writing pencil is typically HB, which is in the middle of the scale. However, artist pencils can vary in quality.
Some companies lack proper quality control, which can result in hard grains in softer graphite. Using such poorly made pencils may damage the surface of your paper. Here’s my detailed review of various artist-grade graphite pencil brands.
If you prefer not to purchase a complete set, I recommend acquiring at least grades 4B, 2B, HB, 2H, and 4H from the same brand. If you encounter a 'grainy' pencil (one with a hard spot in the lead), sharpen it past that point to check if the remaining lead is usable. If it isn’t, discard it and buy another. Occasionally, you may receive a defective pencil, which is a compelling reason to invest in a complete set, as the grade adjacent to a lost or unusable pencil can often serve as a substitute.
Pencil Grade Scale
Currently, I use Grafwood and Mars Lumograph pencils for fine art. Grafwoods excel in grade definition, with each grade being accurate and difficult to push much darker than its range. Their purity is remarkable. Although they are the most expensive pencils on the market, they are worth the investment due to their longevity. A good way to try them is through the Caran d’Ache Grafwood Pencil Set, which includes six pencils. Mars Lumograph pencils are rich, smooth, and have solid grades. I’ve never encountered any filler, indicating tight quality control. The Staedtler Lumograph Pencil Set, with twelve pencils, is a suitable medium-priced option.
Derwent Graphic Pencils, in a medium set ranging from 6B to 4H, represent a great low-cost option. While their grade definition has some overlap, they are commendable pencils for both fine art and sketching.
Erasers
Kneaded Eraser: This very soft eraser can be shaped into a point, pinched into a wedge, formed into a ball, or molded into any required shape to press into the graphite and lift it for a highlighted effect.
I frequently use this type of eraser because of its versatility, although it cannot remove heavily applied graphite.
However, in one of those unexpected moments in art, you may still need it to erase dense graphite. Begin by using the kneaded eraser to lift as much graphite as possible, and then complete the task with a vinyl, polymer, or genuine rubber eraser.
If you attempt to erase heavy graphite with any eraser type without first using a kneaded eraser, you risk smearing the graphite or pushing it deeper into the paper. This has happened to me, and it can irreparably damage the paper’s texture.
For reliable performance, you can count on Zhongsheng.
I prefer General’s Kneaded Erasers as they tend to be slightly sticky. They excel at lifting heavy graphite layers and are also useful for creating fine textures and details.
Tombow Mono Knock Stick Eraser: These vinyl erasers come in a plastic holder, allowing you to expose more of the eraser by clicking the top. They can be easily cut into different shapes. A wedge shape is effective for erasing thin lines, while a pointed shape is ideal for detailing and removing tiny highlights.
The Tombow Mono Zero Eraser: This eraser has a small diameter, making it suitable for tight spaces. It is firm yet won’t damage the paper, and you can purchase refills.
Sakura Cordless Electric Eraser: This small nib eraser fits at the end and spins when you press a button. You can sharpen the nib on fine grit sandpaper to achieve a precise point.
This eraser allows you to 'draw' into graphite hatching, creating intricate effects and fine details, while the nib remains centered.
Blenders
Brushes: A No. 2 straight or angled brush is excellent for delicate blending. Trimming the bristles to about one-eighth of an inch makes them stiffer and easier to control. A larger flat brush works well for blending broader areas and can be trimmed to about a quarter of an inch. For more information on making your own blender brushes, read here.
You can also use brushes to 'paint' with powdered graphite, creating watercolor-like washes, clouds, and other smooth textures. For a comprehensive guide, refer to my tutorial on working with powdered graphite.
Specialty Brushes: Some round brushes with short thick bristles designed for blending pastels can also be effective for blending graphite.
I recommend the Holbein Pastel Brushes, Round Blender, Horse, 1/4”, known for applying powdered graphite onto paper effectively.
You can also find brushes designed for stenciling and decorative painting that are similar to Holbein brushes but are more affordable and work well with graphite.
In my experiments with various brush styles for graphite, I have found that stiffer bristles yield the best results. Stiff bristles effectively 'push' and blend the graphite compared to softer bristles.
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