Anyone think that there's a practical way that I can wrap the coil on a threaded rod and then successfully remove it? I suppose if the rod was oiled/greased, I could "unscrew" the coil; however, I also plan to heat up the coil to make sure it holds form. Those ideas seem incompatible unless oiling after the fact is able to get under the wire and into the threads.

You could use a low melting temperature alloy (these are alloys of bismuth and indium) and cast it into a rod then thread the rod in a lathe for your mandrel. Wind the coil over the threads and then dunk it in a pot of boiling water to melt the mandrel. Or use a wax rod and melt it - wax is way too soft for any appreciable wire tension, of course.

Not the simplest approach, to say the least.

There are also expanding sleeve mandrels and I suppose one could take a piece of material (metal or plastic) and split it in two pieces. Temporarily join the two pieces and bore a hole in the center suitable for an expanding sleeve mandrel. Chuck the combination in the lathe and turn to the desired diameter.  Then wind the coil on the former and when done de-expand the sleeve mandrel which should allow you to remove the two former halves without disturbing the coil. This only works if the wire is sufficiently strong to be be self supporting.

As far as turn counting and the like, look on E-bay for "coil winders" and you will see a lot of products.

I normally wind inductors on the lathe, running slow in back gear, usually guiding and tensioning the wire by hand. However, you can also engage the thread cutting mechanism and use that to position the wire with a very simple tube through the toolpost. The tube needs to be soft and smooth to avoid wire damage - Delrin or Teflon is a good choice. You can also use a hand crank through the headstock and not run the lathe motor, which gives you excellent control but sometimes it seems that you need three hands to do that right.

I've also wound coils on a paper former - wrap a couple turns of standard computer or copy paper around a steel rod and tape the paper to the steel rod at both ends. Chuck the rod in the lathe and wind away. You can mark the paper with the turns location to help you guide the spacing. After winding, slide the steel rod out leaving just the paper former and the winding - you could burn the paper out with a match leaving just the coil or you could carefully remove the paper.

You could use a low melting temperature alloy (these are alloys of bismuth and indium) and cast it into a rod then thread the rod in a lathe for your mandrel. Wind the coil over the threads and then dunk it in a pot of boiling water to melt the mandrel. Or use a wax rod and melt it - wax is way too soft for any appreciable wire tension, of course.Not the simplest approach, to say the least.There are also expanding sleeve mandrels and I suppose one could take a piece of material (metal or plastic) and split it in two pieces. Temporarily join the two pieces and bore a hole in the center suitable for an expanding sleeve mandrel. Chuck the combination in the lathe and turn to the desired diameter. Then wind the coil on the former and when done de-expand the sleeve mandrel which should allow you to remove the two former halves without disturbing the coil. This only works if the wire is sufficiently strong to be be self supporting.As far as turn counting and the like, look on E-bay for "coil winders" and you will see a lot of products.I normally wind inductors on the lathe, running slow in back gear, usually guiding and tensioning the wire by hand. However, you can also engage the thread cutting mechanism and use that to position the wire with a very simple tube through the toolpost. The tube needs to be soft and smooth to avoid wire damage - Delrin or Teflon is a good choice. You can also use a hand crank through the headstock and not run the lathe motor, which gives you excellent control but sometimes it seems that you need three hands to do that right.I've also wound coils on a paper former - wrap a couple turns of standard computer or copy paper around a steel rod and tape the paper to the steel rod at both ends. Chuck the rod in the lathe and wind away. You can mark the paper with the turns location to help you guide the spacing. After winding, slide the steel rod out leaving just the paper former and the winding - you could burn the paper out with a match leaving just the coil or you could carefully remove the paper.

Check now

Resistance Wire coiling machine RX01

The Resistance Wire Coiling Machine is used to wind the resistive wires into coils for tubular Heaters.

With competitive price and timely delivery, Foshan Osno sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

The manufacture of spirals of resistance wire is of the greatest importance for the correct function and long life of the heating elements. When coiling the resistance wire by hand , it is difficult to obtain a uniform pitch after cold stretching. Therefore, you often have to do hot stretch ,thereby eliminate the irregularities. However, hot stretching is much more expensive.

Want more information on Tubular heater coil winding machine? Feel free to contact us.

Constructions

• Machine stand in welded sheath design
• Motor with variable mandrel speed
• Control tower
• Cutting device
• Coil tray
• Set of tools

Technical parameters

1. Power supply:220V,50Hz, 500W
2. Main axis speed:0&#;rpm
3. Pinch Roller speed:0&#;74rpm
4. Accuracy:&#;/&#;1%
5. Spool max. weight :4kgs
6. I.D. of element:0.75mm&#;12.7mm
7. Resistance Wire diameter:0.10mm&#;1.0mm
8. Size&#;L&#;W&#;H&#;:&#;700&#;700&#;mm&#;
9. Weight:730kg

Additional equipment

• Cut off device for coil diameter 9~12mm
• Dereeling device for large wire spools up to 20kgs
• double wires and three wires coiling devices are available.

Required information for ordering

1. Mandrel size
2. Coil diameter
3. Power supply