organization and operation of women's apparel industry

As the apparel industry transitions into a large-scale business model, the ability to swiftly modify production facilities has diminished. Launching a new apparel business with limited capital in anticipation of a specific item becoming a fashion hit is more of an exception today than the norm. While the emergence of mergers has impacted the women's apparel sector, some operational aspects persist over time.

The firms in this industry exhibit high levels of specialization in their manufacturing processes. Not all apparel producers engage in every step necessary to create finished garments. Each season brings in a fresh assortment of styles tailored for consumers.

Types of Producers

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The fashion apparel industry encompasses three main categories of producers: manufacturers, jobbers, and contractors. A manufacturer oversees the entire process of apparel production, from sourcing the fabric to the delivery of finished garments. An apparel jobber takes care of design, planning, purchasing, cutting, selling, and shipping, excluding the actual sewing tasks. A contractor focuses solely on providing sewing services, often referred to as an outside shop.

Manufacturer

In essence, a manufacturer is a producer engaged in all stages of garment production. The design team either creates original designs or acquires suitable designs from freelance artists. Company executives plan each collection, and the necessary fabric and trimmings are procured. Generally, the cutting and sewing processes occur within the company's own factories. Occasionally, manufacturers may enlist contractors when item sales exceed their sewing capabilities or when shipping deadlines must be met.

Apparel Jobbers

Apparel jobbers manage all aspects of garment production except for the sewing phase, which they may subcontract. Some jobbers may maintain an in-house design team to develop seasonal lines or procure designs from freelance creators. However, they do not directly sew or finish garments, instead coordinating with outside contractors to realize these operations.

Contractors

Contractors typically specialize in one specific phase of garment production: sewing. In some instances, they may also handle cutting based on patterns supplied by a jobber or manufacturer. These contractors accommodate producers with limited sewing capabilities or those exceeding their operational capacity. When using a contractor, manufacturers provide cut pieces for assembly. For a pre-agreed fee, the contractor sews, finishes, inspects, and returns garments for retail distribution.

Size of Producers

Traditionally, many firms producing women's apparel have remained relatively small. However, over the past two decades, a number of major apparel companies have surfaced.

Specialization by Product

Historically, women's apparel firms were categorized based on types of apparel, size ranges, and price zones. Increasingly, firms are expanding their lines and crossing established price and product boundaries. Still, both producers and retail buyers continue to focus on product specialization.

Categories

The traditional categories within women's apparel include outerwear (coats, suits, rainwear, jackets), dresses (one or two-piece designs and ensembles), and sportswear (activewear for various activities like swimming and casual outings). Additional categories consist of after-five and evening wear, uniforms and aprons, and maternity clothing.

Size Ranges

Women's apparel comes in multiple size ranges, from even-numbered half-sizes 12 to 26 and straight sizes 36 to 52. The misses category encompasses regular sizes 6 to 20 and tall sizes 12 to 20, while juniors include sizes 5 to 17. Petites encompass even-numbered sizes 2 to 16.

 

Wholesale Price Zones

Women's apparel is created and sold at diverse wholesale price levels. Key factors influencing garment pricing include material quality, workmanship, and labor demand during production. Though the market displays a vast price spectrum, specific zones cater to target customer groups.

Merchandising and Marketing Activities

Most fashion producers sell directly to retail venues rather than through intermediary channels. Women's apparel producers strategize their promotional efforts toward both retailers and consumers via advertisements, publicity, and promotional support for retailers purchasing their goods.

Advertising

Advertising for women's fashion apparel prominently features the producer's name. The apparel manufacturing sector allocates less than 1 percent of annual sales to advertising, but their exposure remains significant. Producers commonly use television, radio, and print media, including trade magazines that cater to retailers.

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Publicity

Beyond traditional advertising, apparel producers utilize various publicity avenues to increase brand familiarity. Many firms hire public relations services to distribute press materials, including images of popular styles, to different media outlets.

Moreover, major women's designer firms in New York host semi-annual press weeks to showcase collections to fashion editors and provide essential images and story material for coverage.

 

Promotional Aids

To facilitate retailers and enhance merchandise sales, many apparel manufacturers offer various promotional tools, which may include:
- Ideas for display setups
- Stock display fixtures
- Advertising support
- Store layout advice
- Assistance with reorder forms and inventory checks
- Educational materials for sales teams and clients
- Presentations by manufacturer representatives
- Fashion shows with expert guidance for training staff and engaging customers
- Promotional campaigns in conjunction with the producer's national advertising efforts
- Advertising materials for smaller stores.

For instance, one manufacturer showcased a 20-minute color video to educate retail sales teams about the current collection, including insights on fabrics and styles. Another method, a trunk show, allows customers to view the latest samples while meeting the producer's representatives to learn about the garments directly.

Sivambiga .V is a student of NIFT Kannur

The women's apparel industry began with numerous family-oriented businesses. This landscape started shifting in the late 20th century when conglomerates like Gulf and Western became prominent. While the industry has maintained certain operational flexibility, it now calls for more structured planning. The approach to launching apparel businesses has evolved from a dependency on instant success to a more measured strategy over time.