Three Tape Options for Drywall

There are a variety of tapes on the market for finishing drywall seams, and I&#;m going to show you three of the best choices.

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Mesh Drywall Tape

Mesh tape has been around for a long time. This is a little bit of a different variety than you&#;re probably used to seeing, as this is an extrastrong, self-adhesive mesh tape. The mesh tapes typically are not embedded in a drying-type compound. The mesh tape would typically be embedded in your setting compound. Because most mesh tapes are not as strong as paper, you need the extra strength of a setting compound.

Paper Drywall Tape

Then we have the traditional paper tape, which has been around ever since drywall started to be taped. It&#;s inexpensive and is precreased, making it great for inside corners. This is typically embedded in all-purpose drying-type compounds, such as heavyweight compound. I have used paper tape for years because it&#;s inexpensive and easy to work with. It works with all my automatic-taping tools and it also works very well with hand-taping tools.

Fiberglass Mat Drywall Tape

A few years ago, a new type of tape came on the market&#;a fiberglass mat product. This is a very strong tape and is used primarily in place of paper tape. Nowadays, it does not have a crease, but it does fold easily so it will go into an inside corner. What I like about the fiberglass mat tape is that it is physically easy to embed. When you embed paper tape, it has to be pushed into the compound with quite a bit of pressure, but with the fiberglass mat tape, you don&#;t have to work nearly as hard. Also, you&#;re less likely to get any air bubbles behind the fiberglass mat tape.

I still do use all three types of tape&#;the mesh for when I&#;m in a hurry and I&#;m using a setting compound, and the paper tape when I&#;m hand-taping for inside corners (because the fiberglass mat does not fold as easily in the inside corners when I&#;m hand-taping). But when I&#;m doing just regular seams, I typically like to use a fiberglass mat.

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Hiding Butt Joints

To hide &#;butt joints&#; (where two non-tapered ends of drywall meet), you have to build up a hump of joint compound that&#;s very thin and wide. This is time-consuming and difficult to do well. So if you&#;re a novice drywall finisher, avoiding butt joints is smart.

The best way to avoid butt joints is to use sheets of drywall that are long enough to cover entire walls and ceilings. As a result, you&#;ll have only tapered joints to finish. Drywall sheets are commonly available in 8- and 12-ft. lengths. Often, specialty suppliers carry 14-ft. sheets.

If your ceiling is longer than 14-ft., you can&#;t avoid butt joints. But you can avoid butt joints on a wall that exceeds 14 ft. Simply hang the sheets vertically rather than horizontally. That way, you&#;ll have several tapered joints to cover, but no butt joints.

Hanging drywall vertically is slower than hanging it horizontally because you have to make sure the tapered edges fall at the centers of the studs. Cut the first sheet to width so the tapered edge lands on the center of a stud. After that, the edges of each sheet should fall perfectly on the studs. If you run into misplaced studs, nail 2x2s to them. If you have 9-ft. ceilings, call a drywall supplier to find 10-ft.-long sheets.

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